Laser Thread

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spymongoose
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Laser Thread

Post by spymongoose » Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:14 am

Progress has been made with the lazer project shadow has been babbling about for so long. I came across a couple of suitable Nd:YAG lazer rods that were coated and polished and purfect for this application. They are rated for 5 joules, and 2 joules is what shadow expects out of them with the setup he has in mind. One is going to shadow the day they arrive.

Stay tuned! More to come!
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Post by spymongoose » Wed Feb 23, 2005 5:26 am

the post office tried to deliver the rods today, and I was away... :(
I'm gonna pick them up in the morning.

Shadowmite is making the other half of the project, fabrication of the pulse forming assembly. Hopefully that comes along nicely...

Project "death ray" is alive and well folks... :twisted:
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Post by mratatood » Wed May 04, 2005 5:15 pm

what is the project?
cigarette lighter? :P

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Post by spymongoose » Sat May 07, 2005 1:47 am

LOL yes. the project is an orbital class cigarette lighter. First we get the laser working, then the orbital platform. Maybe we can find other uses too, like holding the worlds major cities hostage.
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Post by Connected » Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:25 pm

Sounds like fun... I was hoping for a hedge trimmer. It will be great to trim the neighbor's hedges and trees back to the property line!!!

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Post by spymongoose » Wed Aug 03, 2005 12:33 am

No real progress since we couldnt get enough of a reaction from "pumping" the lazer. Shadowmite and I suspect the problem lies with the neodynium doping level. The discount bargain bin lazer rods I got on ebay may not have enough neodynium to allow us to knock the atoms out of thier orbits. Although these are the most expensive part of the lazer, I am always on the lookout for a rod that looks better.
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better rods

Post by laserdude » Fri Aug 05, 2005 10:00 pm

I have a nice medical grade rod from this head...
Make me an offer...
Image

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Post by spymongoose » Sat Aug 06, 2005 7:17 am

Well you have a nice setup there... Any clues to how big (lenth/dia in MM) that rod is? Any info on the doping level? How much power does that release when its fired? How much for the flash tube and the cavity? Most of that info is stamped all over medical lasers. And why dont you enslave the human race with that setup yourself, and save me the trouble of doing it? Any info would be helpful, except for where you got it. That I dont want to know. PM me here, post here, catch me on the chat, or email me at spymongoose AT yahoo DOT com.
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oh man

Post by laserdude » Sat Aug 06, 2005 11:26 am

the best part is where i got it from... the US GOVERNMENT LOL!
They will auction anything at some point. sad to say, I do not have the data on that YAG unit, it was yanked out the unit and went home with me, from there it began to live a new life at my friends house where he decided to let it sit. I dont have the details on it I am sad to say - the rod is about the diameter of a pencil, big compared to most you see. We have a pavepenny system and the the rod in that thing is tiny.

I do have a good supply of laser crap if you are so inclined, maybe we can go through it and inventory the shit for you.

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Post by spymongoose » Mon Aug 08, 2005 6:39 am

I think you may have gotten the attention of shadowmite with all this diode laser crap. He had made inquiries into buying one from a friendly and non-corrupt nation (China), but had as yet had difficulties breaking the language barrier. I'm kinda curious, what modifications do you guys do to your diode lasers?
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This is one

Post by laserdude » Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:55 am

Since nerdtoy is down.... I am just pasting the 1st mod here so pardon the caps, its the way I wrote it to get through to the moron populace. I expect you know what you are doing so omit the obvious..
Remember there are limits and you can refference the laser mentioned here
http://www.genlight.com/laser

READ EVERYTHING FIRST!
The pointer I listed on my site and gave a high rating to and the one that WAS modifiable is the GP5 and can be had on ebay now for around 50 bucks. They use compression to seal the pointer so you have to carefully pull it apart at the gold ring. It will slide apart nicely with the proper tools. NOTE THAT THE NEWER POINTERS ARE NOT FULLY CAPABLE OF RECEIVING THE MOD. LEADLIGHT IS AT THE BOTTOM OF MY LIST.

Once you get inside of it you will have to check the diode itself to make sure it is a C-mount type and also make sure that the OC mirror is adjustable. If these two elements are not there then it is a newer model and can still be modified but not to the extent I had mine. Legally the industry as you know requires all pointers to be at or below 5mW and with a DPSS laser this is very shameful. I just put two and two together knowing about the technology. The diode was a 500mW Polaroid, those are long gone now I believe but it was capable of taking quite a bit of current (2 amps). Knowing that it was cranked down and misaligned was the piece of information that passed everyone by.

Make a measurement of the current going to the diode as it is in it’s factory configuration and get specs on the exact diode you have. Keep this information.
You will need to remove the current limiting resistor and replace it with the correct value as per the specs on the diode that you have in the pointer. That is the first step. SOME POINTERS WILL DIE IF YOU TRY THIS – THE NEWER MODELS ARE USING CHEAP DIODES SO BEWARE!
Once you get that done you need to turn DOWN the pot and again make a measurement of the current, the laser will be much brighter. I kept mine around 700ma and it killed the batteries in minutes. 700 ma may kill a new style pointer, again be careful.

Get your power meter out and a very good quality IR filter and measure only the green light, you will also be measuring IR and it will give you false readings. I replaced my IR filter in my pointer with a high quality glass filter. You will need to get the pointer setup around 10 mw so the diode will not overheat and the crystals will not overheat, both of these things can affect output and wavelength going into the crystals.

While measuring the 10mw make very slight adjustments to the OC mirror, this is another piece I also replaced in my pointer with a high grade glass optic. Was a pain in the neck but it can be done, the mount is what you have to match up and use with the new OC. So making adjustments you will notice the output vary and from there just tweek it so you have the maximum output with a properly aligned OC mirror – these are usually poorly aligned and result in poor output. You can also re-align the more non-critical crystals but I advise changing those with higher quality pieces cut from lab grade material as well. If you overpower the diode it can destroy the crystals, they are cheap flat windows rather than quality thick crystals.

Note that the OC in the original pointer will have three adjusting set-screws on it, the cheaper pointers and ones that replaced the one I had do not have this anymore and you have to UNGLUE things. Again – beware of doing this unless you are sure of yourself and know what you are doing.

With the OC adjusted, make sure you have your power meter going and current meter hooked up and turn the pot up till you come as close to bringing the diode into spec as you can and do this fast. Things get hot really quickly. Once you get everything properly tuned you can put it back together. The body helps sink the heat. Remember this, you can ONLY OPERATE for minutes and you must let it cool specially if you are using those cheap factory components. I recommend sinking the laser pointer body by machining down a good piece of aluminum and clamping the laser in between the aluminum machined blocks and go even further and cut some fins and mount some fans. I have access to machining equipment so this is no problem for me. Make sure to leave a groove for a rod to act as a switch actuator.

All this should be done wearing the proper goggles and using proper targets that will absorb and displace the heat. I use graphite blocks. I hope this helps.

Let me know if you need anything further.. Remember sometimes just a mirror tweak and pot adjustment is all it takes to get a brilliant beam!
NOTE – IT IS ILLEGAL TO USE THE MODIFIED POINTER OUTSIDE YOUR HOME OR IN ANY PUBLIC PLACE. POINTING THE LASER AT ANY POWER INTO THE SKY IS A RISK THAT CAN NOW LAND YOU IN PRISON FOR 20 YEARS ACCORDING TO THE PATRIOT ACT!!!

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Ok.. the skinny on diodes.

Post by laserdude » Mon Aug 08, 2005 10:03 am

China is a fair place to obtain laser "parts" and such but there are other local US Surplus houses that have much higher power for much less money. If you can figure out how to collimate a bar diode, you can get tens or better in watts from one, you just have to tame it. Thinking though, that might be ideal to pump a rod but cooling is going to be a major issue on both the bar and rod. A simple TEC is not going to be enough, will have to be fluid pumped and go through a heat exchanger.

Since I am at work now I have all day to surf the resources out there. When my friend gets back into town I will also see what he has, I know he has a bunch of diodes in high power but not sure what wavelength. I know he has low power visible red - like 80mw or so for sure. Use the email realnola@gmail.com to get me at work if you have any questions regarding the previous post.

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Post by spymongoose » Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:10 am

Having heard all about the "imported" chicom diode laser shadowmite bought, I still was hoping for a bit of instantaneous destructive power... Shadowmite was having trouble popping helium ballons of certain colors... but I sleep better at night knowing that if they keep this up the chinese will also have no laser shield allowing good old fashioned american plutonium to rain down from the sky in a mutually assured destrutive moment of annihilation. oh well...
Talkabout T900 --> Handspring Visorphone --> Kyocera 7135 --> Treo 600 --> Apache PPC 6700 -->Nokia 770
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